I’ve been working/studying in Ermita and Malate for more than two decades, and there’s always a part of me that’s searching for the next cafe to visit. Some of these are great for focus or flow sessions, while others carry a more relaxed vibe.
Posting this now in the spirit of Araw ng Maynila, or Manila City Day. Happy 454th founding anniversary to Manila City!
Everything is in Ermita
Ermita is one of the busiest, most populated, and most visited areas in Manila City. Located in the 5th district, and spanning from Manila Bay to the Pasig River, Ermita offers plenty of things to do and places to visit. Both Ermita and the neighboring Malate used to house grandiose ancestral mansions. World War II changed much of the cityscape, but much of its character and culture remains.
Most people don’t believe me when I say Manila is a walking city –but if you’re only touring Ermita (or Malate), I promise you can get anywhere within a 20 to 30-minute walk. You just need plenty of water and an umbrella.
Top places to visit (history and nature edition)
- Rizal Park (Luneta): One of the largest and arguably the most important public park in the country. It serves as a monument to naitonal hero José Rizal. The Chinese Garden is my favorite spot.
- National Museum Complex: Situated around or near Rizal Park are three national museums — the National Museum of Fine Arts, the National Museum of Anthropology, and the National Museum of Natural History. Admission is free!
- Arroceros Forest Park: Called the ‘Last Lung of Manila’, this park offers a quiet moment with nature.
Other major attractions or notable institutions: the National Library of the Philippines, Bonifacio Shrine and the City Hall, Museo Pambata, Quirino Grandstand, Manila Ocean Park, the historic Manila Hotel, and Manila Metropolitan Theater (still on my to-visit list).
Naturally my place of work (and previous place of study) is also in the Ermita area. Other major administrative or public institutions, such as the Department of Justice, the Supreme Court, as well as the World Health Organization headquarters can be found here.
I’ve written plenty of blog posts on Manila City, so feel free to check some of them out:
- My visit to Manila Clock Tower Museum on conversations with contemporary: four art spaces near metro manila
- A visit to Luneta for the Luneta Art Fair on on art weekend one: Luneta Art Fair and Old Manila Walks
- Adventures visiting the National Museum of Natural History on National Museum of Natural History (manila adventures pt 3)
Cafe Hunting in Manila
With everything that’s going on in Ermita, Manila, you’d think it would be a hotspot for trendy cafes and restaurants. Unfortunately… no. Everyone’s too busy with work, study, and traffic to invest in a serious cafe culture. (That’s just my theory).
But a day out in Ermita will easily leave you thirsty. For that extra caffeine boost (while working, studying or touring the city), I’ve found some go-to shops. And then I decided to rate them on: coffee taste, value for money, and atmosphere.
Let’s go!
Papakape Pop-up in Rizal Park
First on this list is also the newest. This experimental cafe brings local flavors to everyday coffee beverages. It first found its following in Makati City, before moving to Fort Santiago. Earlier this year, they started a pop-up in the Martyrdom Garden of Jose Rizal, making the cafe a 15-minute walk from my apartment.
Papakape in Rizal Park
Coffee taste: 3.8/5
Value for money: 4/5
Atmosphere: 5/5
The first few drinks I tried in Papakape were overly sweet, and maybe a little too unique or experimental for my tastes. I found my sweet spot with their Coconut Latte, which costs Php 200. The price isn’t too bad. **Please note that I am NOT a coffee connoisseur. I cannot even begin to describe what makes a good coffee.
The atmosphere is immaculate. It’s situated right inside the park, making it a good place to visit after meditating or reading in one of the gardens. The cafe provides respite from the heat: it features natural wood furnishings, vibrant modern art, and soft instrumental music. There’s always several people studying or catching up, but I’ve never seen it too crowded to the point of being distracting.
I could easily spend a couple of hours writing or reading. (The only downside is the lack of free wi-fi or power outlets).
Bonus: There are cafe cats!
Gourmet’s Cafe (Est. 1989) in Ramon Magsaysay Center
Gourmet’s Cafe has a lot of potential… that remains mostly potential? Right now, it’s a hidden gem surrounded by big buildings and frequented by cyclists taking a break along Roxas Boulevard.
Gourmet’s Cafe in Ramon Magsaysay Center
Coffee taste: 3.5/5
Value for money: 5/5
Atmosphere: 3/5
Their branding promises premium coffee, with a menu boasting of unique tasting notes from quality beans. But that quality seems to be barista-dependent, and I’ve found myself neutral to their coffee more often than not.
Their coffee is very reasonably priced at less than Php 200. They also offer more savory food items, making it more sulit (worth it) to take that 15-minute walk from my apartment. There is a fee to use the library space, but the last time I went it was only Php 50 per session.
The concept promises so much. Theoretically, walking through the doors should inspire a feeling of expansion. I keep looking for that contrast between the outdoor brutalist architecture (designed by Alfredo Luz and associates) and the more traditional nature-inspired interior. And the feeling of enjoying coffee while browsing books should automatically add a little cool factor… I don’t know. I’ve always felt a little lukewarm and even uncomfortable staying long inside this library cafe.
Clock Tower Cafe in Manila City Hall
Known more for its atmosphere than its coffee, I’d say the Clock Tower Cafe is more of a nice-to-see than a must-visit or regular cafe haunt. (It’s not every day that you get to climb the iconic tower of the Manila City Hall.)
Clock Tower Cafe in Manila City Hall
Coffee taste: 3/5
Value for money: 4.5/5
Atmosphere: 3/5
For the life of me, I cannot remember what their coffee tasted like. It was so unforgettable, but not memorable for being bad. This can only mean that it was a solid 3 out of 5 in terms of coffee taste and quality.
Value for money was fairly good for a cafe that is technically part of the Manila Clock Tower Museum. More than the coffee and the food, you’re paying for the atmosphere and the view of Manila from the window.
It’s not a place to stay for long, but it is a good place to rest after climbing some three flights of stairs for the museum. The interior design is very fresh and highlights the openness of being so many floors up the building.
Like the others in this list, there is no free wi-fi or power outlets. However, also compared to Papakape and Gourmet’s Cafe, this is the least accessible space. Those stairs aren’t good for bad knees.
To Part 2 (and beyond)
I have a couple (or dozen) more to share on this blog, but I’ll take my time sharing them. I’m still wishing for a work-friendly cafe within a walking distance. (Read: free wi-fi, accessible power outlets, and doesn’t cost an arm or a leg.) And I’m definitely still waiting for the National Museum Complex to have its own cafe…
Before I end, I’d like to thank one of the work-friendly cafes that served me well from 2022 (first opened December 2021) until it permanently closed last August 2024. Cheers to you, Kuma Kohi!
.
To more cafes (and really, accessible third spaces in Manila).
Until next time! ♥
jari m 
Say something back.